...but three for ice cream as Hosseini delivers cones to our
table under the trees near the beautiful 15th century stone church of St.
Stepanos. We've driven as far north as we will on this trip, under high
mountains draped with lacy doilies of snow, and following the Aras River
through its spectacular gorge. Across the river is the country of Azerbaijan.
On this side is Azerbaijani Iran, long the home of Christian speakers of the
Azeri language. Many still don't speak Persian. The same red.poppies bloom on
both sides of the river. Armed.guards will shoot people who try to cross here.
It's easy at the recognized border crossings.
One.reason they cross is for Iran's good medical care. (That solves the mystery
of why there are money changers clustered around the hospitals.)
St. Stepanos
was a monastery, now empty. We wander,
imagining the monks living with.greater purpose through the cells and chapel,
refectory, and garden in this austere beautiful place where two religions
coexist and cultures leap rivers.
An old couple sits above us on the stones. We ask them if we
may take their picture. They laugh and say 'why not we have been taking yours'.
He's retired and chatty. She's more
quiet, a grandmotherly presence, composed and warm. They have included us in
their day with the ease and charm of all we have met in Iran.
In the morning we went even further back in time---4000 years---in
another of Iran's superb museums, free because it is World Museum Day. It's a
superbly presented view of an ancient cemetery discovered during construction.
Bob the anthropologist stares down from the elevated walkway into the
glass-covered graves of people who in
life were well over six feet tall and powerfully built, curled now in the
foetal position, long legs folded against their chests. To save space? To simulate death as a rebirth? Who knows? A
woman, at least 5'8", aged about 40 and childless (also verfied by mere
bones) lies surrounded by weapons. A warrior? A warrior's wife, daughter,
sister? . Many cultures have thrived here. Perhaps the many tall (Hossein is at
least 6'4") strapping Iranians we see owe their DNA to these silent predecessors.
I leave the answers to the experts.
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